MANUFACTURER SELECTION GUIDE · B2B SERIES

Choosing a manufacturer is a 30-minute conversation that decides your next three seasons. Here is the question list.

Why the Questions Matter More Than the Price

China produces over 60% of the world's knitwear. That abundance is the problem: for every genuine cashmere manufacturer, there are dozens of storefronts that look like factories — trading companies, resellers, one-person export agents forwarding your order to whoever has spare machines that month. A manufacturer's website and Alibaba listing show you how a factory wants to be seen, not whether it can deliver your order.

Here is the pattern almost every bad factory relationship follows. The problems were visible before the order — in a vague MOQ answer, a certificate that was "being renewed," a lead time promised at off-season speed. Nobody asked the right question, or nobody wrote the answer down.

Knitwear is especially unforgiving, because unlike cut-and-sew garments, a sweater is made from scratch in yarn. The fiber, the machine gauge, the stitch structure and the finishing decide the final product. A mistake in any of them shows up in the finished sweater — not on a spec sheet you can correct later. That is why this guide is a list of questions, not a list of factories: the right partner is the one whose answers are specific, verifiable, and in writing.

Before You Send a Single Inquiry: 3 Prep Steps

Good questions only work if every factory answers the same brief. Do these three things first, or you will get quotes you cannot compare:

1. Define your product in technical terms. Yarn (100% cashmere or blend, ply), target gauge, construction (fully fashioned, whole-garment, or cut-and-sew), weight, size range and quantity per color. If you don't know your gauge yet, read our custom collection overview first — a 7GG crewneck and a 3GG chunky cardigan need different machines, and different factories.
2. Send the same spec to every supplier. Ask each one to quote the identical yarn composition and count, gauge, stitch, measurements, size range, quantity by color, trims, labels, testing, packing, delivery date and Incoterm. A lower unit price means nothing when one quote excludes testing and export packing.
3. Prepare your brief. Reference photos or sketches, target quantity, target price or retail price point, desired delivery date, and whether you need OEM (your design) or ODM (factory design). Factories that receive a clear brief respond faster — and take the inquiry more seriously.

The 12 Questions to Ask Before You Order

Work through them in order. Each one includes what a strong answer sounds like — and the red flag that should end the conversation.

Question 1: Are you the factory, or a trading company?

This is first for a reason. A trading company that resells another factory's production adds a margin and puts distance between you and the people controlling quality and lead time. Trading companies are not automatically bad — an experienced sourcing partner can add real value — but you must know which one you are talking to and who runs the knitting.

How to verify: ask for the business license and check the registered name matches the company you will be paying. Request a live video walkthrough of the factory floor — not a pre-recorded tour. And notice how they talk: a real knitter answers in terms of gauge, yarn count and construction; a reseller stays on generalities.

Question 2: What gauges and machines do you run?

A factory that runs 12GG fine knitwear is not automatically set up for 3GG chunky cables — and a line built around cotton may not have the finishing setup for cashmere. One 12GG machine is not "we do 12GG."

A strong answer names: the gauge range (a good knitwear factory typically covers coarse 3–5GG through fine 12–16GG), how many machines run each gauge, the machine brands, and whether they knit fully fashioned panels or cut-and-sew. Then ask them to confirm capability against your specific design — not their general catalog: "show me a 7-gauge cashmere crewneck you produced for another buyer," not "show me your sweaters."

Question 3: Where does your cashmere yarn come from?

Yarn is half the cost of a cashmere sweater and nearly all of its quality. You want a factory that can name the source region, the yarn spinners it works with, and the spec of the yarn on offer — micron count, fiber length, ply. Grade A cashmere runs 14–16 microns; the world's finest fiber comes from Inner Mongolia's western grasslands.

A strong answer includes traceability: the ability to connect your order back to a yarn lot, and mill documentation for fiber content. This matters commercially, not just romantically — fiber-content claims on your labels are a legal requirement in the US and EU, and substitution is the most common fraud in the category.

Question 4: Can I verify your certifications?

A logo is not a certificate. Ask for the document — then check the number in the scheme's own registry.

For US and EU channels, the standard set is OEKO-TEX Standard 100 (harmful substances), BSCI or SMETA/SEDEX (labor standards), and ideally ISO 9001 for quality management. Sustainability-focused retailers increasingly require SFA (Sustainable Fibre Alliance) membership. But certificates are easy to state and hard to check from a photo.

A strong answer is a document, not a logo: the full current certificate with holder name, site address, scope, issue and expiry dates — and a certificate or audit ID you can check yourself. BSCI and WRAP publish member and certificate records you can look up online. Confirm the audit actually covers the production site that will knit your order — a group-level sustainability report does not automatically apply to every factory in the group.

Question 5: What is your MOQ — per style AND per color?

Ask for both numbers, in writing. A low headline MOQ often hides conditions: one color only, standard sizes only, stock yarn only. Custom-dyed yarn raises the minimum to several hundred pieces per color, because dye lots and machine setup only pay for themselves at volume.

A strong answer is specific: MOQ per style, MOQ per color, and what drives the difference (stock yarn vs. custom dye). Most reputable factories start from 100–300 pieces per style; large groups often don't publish a standard MOQ at all because yarn minimums and capacity change the economics. Some manufacturers — including Ewsca — accept orders from 100 pieces per style/color, which lets a boutique test a collection before committing to volume.

Question 6: How does sampling work?

A sample is the cheapest evaluation tool you have. It shows real workmanship, gauge accuracy, color matching and finishing — and, just as important, how the factory communicates when something needs clarification.

A strong answer covers: sampling timeline (7–14 days is normal for knitwear development), the fee and whether it's credited against bulk, how many revision rounds are included, and what they need from you to start (tech pack, reference sample, Pantone references). When the sample arrives, check it against spec: measurements and tolerances, stitch density across panels, color match, linking quality at shoulders and armholes, labels and trims.

The hidden signal: a factory that returns a clean sample in one or two revisions — and flags design problems before you find them — is stronger evidence than any brochure.

Question 7: What is your QC process on my order?

"We do quality control" tells you nothing. "AQL 2.5 on major defects, 100% final inspection" tells you something real.

"We do quality control" tells you nothing. A strong answer is a checkpoint list: raw-material check on incoming yarn, first-piece approval at the start of production (the single most critical checkpoint), in-process checks during knitting, and a final random inspection against an agreed AQL level — AQL 2.5 for major defects is the industry norm for knitwear. Ask what inspection records you'll receive before shipment, and whether third-party inspection (SGS, Intertek, QIMA) is welcome.

Question 8: When does the lead time clock start?

This question prevents the most common dispute in custom manufacturing. Factories quote lead times that sound identical but start counting from different moments.

A strong answer defines the milestone: bulk production officially begins at sample approval plus receipt of deposit and all production information — not at your first inquiry, and not when the yarn "should" arrive. Then pin the plan: production schedule in writing, planned ex-factory date, and what happens if it slips. Be skeptical of promised bulk lead times under 25 days, and during the July–September peak season, when dye-house queues add 2–4 weeks, build a 2–3 week buffer into your launch calendar.

Question 9: Can you break down the price?

Ask for the full breakdown, not just a unit price. A serious knitwear quotation separates yarn cost, knitting, linking, washing, finishing, packing and FOB terms — and then tells you what's not included: sampling fees, lab dips, carton markings and inspection fees are the classic add-ons that surprise first-time buyers.

Also ask how prices move: with volume, and with yarn price movements. Wool and cashmere prices fluctuate — a good factory explains the mechanism instead of silently raising the price after the deposit. This is also where you confirm the quote covers your spec exactly (yarn count, weight, finish), because two factories quoting "a cashmere sweater" can differ by tens of dollars on invisible variables.

Question 10: What are your payment terms?

Payment terms aren't just cash flow — they're a signal of how the factory sees risk and partnership.

Terms	What it signals
T/T 30% deposit + 70% before shipment	Standard for new relationships — fair to both sides
T/T 50/50	Supplier is cautious; may indicate past payment issues with buyers
L/C at sight	Secure but adds bank fees — common for larger orders ($50K+)
Open account / Net 30–60	High trust — usually only after 2+ years of cooperation

Some factories structure progressive milestones (30% deposit, 40% after pre-production sample approval, 30% after final inspection) — that structure aligns incentives on both sides. Whatever you agree, state in writing that final payment is contingent on passing an inspection conducted by a party you appoint.

Question 11: Can I talk to reference buyers?

Not testimonials on a website — actual buyers you can contact. An established factory has current customers who will vouch for them, and asking for two or three references in your market and quality tier is completely normal. While you're at it, evaluate the communication itself, because the #1 cause of delayed shipments isn't production problems — it's communication failures.

What good communication looks like before you've paid anything: replies within 24 hours on business days, proactive flags on potential issues (yarn delays, color matching problems) before you ask, the ability to discuss gauge, stitch structure and wash care in clear English, and documentation — PI, packing lists, QC photos — that arrives without you chasing it.

Question 12: What happens if something goes wrong after delivery?

Ask it exactly like that, and listen carefully to how it's answered. A good factory explains its QC process, its defect classification, and its remedy policy — remake, credit, or discount — clearly. A bad one deflects to shipping carriers, customs, or "that has never happened."

A strong answer includes: a written after-sales window, a defined process for raising claims (photos, batch numbers, retained counter-samples), and a remedy ladder. Also ask whether they retain production samples from your lot — a factory that keeps a sealed counter-sample can settle any dispute in minutes instead of weeks.

The 12 Questions at a Glance

Print this, send it with your first RFQ, and score every candidate the same way:

#	Question	A strong answer is…
1	Factory or trading company?	License name matches payee + live floor video
2	What gauges and machines?	Range + machines per gauge + comparable past work
3	Where does the yarn come from?	Named region, spinner, micron figure, lot traceability
4	Can I verify certifications?	Full documents with IDs you can check in registries
5	MOQ?	In writing, per style AND per color
6	How does sampling work?	7–14 days, fee policy, revision rounds defined
7	QC process on my order?	Checkpoint list + AQL 2.5 + inspection records
8	When does lead time start?	Defined milestone + written schedule + buffer advice
9	Price breakdown?	Yarn/knit/link/wash/finish/pack split + exclusions
10	Payment terms?	T/T 30/70 standard; never 100% upfront
11	References?	Two or three buyers you can actually contact
12	What if something goes wrong?	A written remedy process, not "never happened"

Two or more vague answers is a walk-away. A factory that answers all twelve clearly — and asks you good questions back about your target customer, price point and season — is a workable partner.

One Signal That Beats All Twelve: Who Asks the Questions

Here is the pattern experienced buyers know: a good factory interviews you too. They ask about your target customer, your retail price point, your seasonal timing, your market's labeling rules. They push back on a design that's expensive to knit and suggest a construction that achieves the same look for less. They warn you that your launch date is tight for peak season.

A factory that just quotes immediately is treating you like a transaction. A factory that engages with your business before your money is on the table is treating you like a client — and that relationship is the one that survives three seasons, because their incentives are aligned with yours from day one. It's also the cheapest customer-support system you will ever buy: proactive communication prevents more delays than any contract clause.

How Ewsca Answers the 12

We publish our answers so you can benchmark any factory against them — including us:

Question	Ewsca's answer
1. Factory or trading company?	Manufacturer — founded in the USA with our own factory in China, 20+ years in cashmere knitwear
2. Gauges and machines?	100+ computerized flat-knitting machines covering 3GG–14GG; 200+ new styles developed monthly
3. Yarn source?	Inner Mongolian yarn with traceable sourcing; baby cashmere grade at 13–14 microns, 34–36mm fiber length
4. Certifications?	BSCI, OEKO-TEX, INTERTEK, SFA and Organic EU — full documents provided on request
5. MOQ?	100 pieces per style/color
6. Sampling?	7–14 days including revisions; sample fees credited on bulk orders
7. QC?	First-piece approval, in-line checks, 100% final inspection, third-party inspection welcome
8. Lead time?	Clock starts at sample approval + deposit; bulk runs ~2 weeks, capacity of 100,000 pieces/month
9. Price breakdown?	Itemized quotes separating yarn, knitting, finishing, trims and packing
10. Payment terms?	Standard T/T terms with inspection-contingent balance
11. References?	Available from current brand clients in the US and EU
12. After-sales?	Written remedy policy; counter-samples retained from every production lot

Your First Order: The Trial Run

Even a factory that passes every check should be tested with a small first order before full production. This isn't distrust — it's standard practice, and established factories are comfortable with it because they know quality earns the repeat business. A trial of 100–300 pieces exposes scheduling, quality consistency and communication under real production pressure, at limited cost.

1. Approve the sample and keep it — it's your contractual reference standard.
2. Confirm the tech pack: measurements with tolerances, yarn spec, color approvals, defect classification, packing spec, all signed.
3. Stage the payments so the balance is contingent on inspection.
4. Book third-party inspection for the ex-factory date, against AQL 2.5.
5. Order a 5% buffer — if the MOQ is 100, make 105 to cover shipping and defect allowances.

If the trial lands clean, that single data point is worth more than any audit video — and it's the moment to talk about volume pricing, preferential scheduling and a long-term supply agreement. If it doesn't, you've learned it at the smallest possible cost.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if a "manufacturer" is actually a factory?

Four checks: the business license (registered name matches the payee), a live video walkthrough of the production floor, a machine list by gauge, and the technical register of the conversation. A real knitter talks in gauge, yarn count and construction; a reseller stays on generalities. None of this insults a legitimate factory — we answer these questions weekly.

Should I choose the factory with the lowest price?

No — you're looking for the factory whose capabilities match your product, your volume and your communication style. In knitwear you get what you pay for: a wholesale cashmere cardigan priced 30% below market means compromised yarn, skipped QC, or both. A $2 difference per piece means little if quality is inconsistent or deadlines slip; prioritize value over marginal savings.

Do I need to visit the factory in person?

It's valuable but not mandatory. A live video walkthrough plus third-party inspection covers most of the ground. If you can visit, established knitwear hubs with dense ecosystems of yarn mills, dye houses and skilled knitters are worth prioritizing — the ecosystem itself is hard to replicate elsewhere.

What if I only need 100–200 pieces?

Plenty of reputable factories accept small orders — most start from 100–300 pieces per style with stock yarn, though custom-dyed yarn raises the per-color minimum. The right question isn't "who takes small orders" but "who takes small orders seriously": same sampling rigor, same QC standard, same documentation. A manufacturer who handles a 200-piece first order with the same care as a 20,000-piece repeat is the partner you keep for a decade.

Can a factory steal my design?

Protect it contractually before sharing sensitive files: sign an NDA with the correct legal entity, and include ownership and permitted-use terms in the purchase agreement. Reputable manufacturers working with brand clients do this routinely — hesitation is the exception, not the norm.

How many factories should I compare?

Shortlist three to five from your channel of choice (direct search, trade shows, referrals), send the identical spec to each, and score them against the twelve questions. Comparing more than five rarely improves the decision — the goal is comparable answers, not volume.

Sources & References

1. FashionHDL — How to Evaluate a Sweater Manufacturer Before Starting Production (factory verification, capability matching, sample evaluation, certification registries)
2. KnitSeek — Top Sweater Manufacturers in China: 2026–2027 Guide (RFQ question set, same-spec quoting, MOQ per style/color, lead-time milestones)
3. Lin Sweater Factory — How to Find a Reliable Knitwear Factory in China (60%+ of global knitwear, five revealing questions, red flags, trial-order practice)
4. Lewen Garment — Knitwear Manufacturer Checklist: What to Ask (gauge ranges, machine brands, AQL 2.5 vs. vague claims)
5. New Narwhal — How to Choose a Knitwear Manufacturer in China (payment-terms signal table, communication predictors, verification checklist)
6. Gurtel King — Complete Sourcing Guide for Knitted Accessories (AQL defect levels, inspection checkpoints, stage payments, documentation checklist)

Ewsca-specific figures (machines, capacity, MOQ, sampling, certifications) are from our own production standards; industry norms and red-flag thresholds are buyer-guide conventions published by the sources above. Verify final terms in writing with your chosen factory before placing an order.

The Ewsca Cashmere Team · Custom cashmere knitwear manufacturer · ewsca-cashmereshop.com